Friday, 17 July 2026

Chatsworth House

In between Yorkshire and Anglesey, geographically as well on the time-line of our holiday, lies the town of Bakewell. We decided to stop here in order to visit the grand house of Chatsworth. There is also a certain link to Beth of Hardwick, whose house we had already visited, as this was also "one of hers"! Either one wouldn't be bad but two seems a bit greedy.

Anyway, after breakfast in our hotel it was only a very short drive to get to Chatsworth. Before the house opened we took a stroll around the grounds and the outside. Fortunately we got there before the hordes arrived.

The building below is just the stable block. Still an imposing edifice but nothing compared to the main event.

Fom whichever angle you looked it was enormous and very well maintained. Chatsworth is one of most popular of our grand houses in the UK so the income generated allows them to keep it in good nick.


Even the bridge across the river was more design than functionality.

After a quick coffee and smiling nicely at the gate-person we were allowed into the house 30 minutes before our allotted time ahead of the next load of tour buses. 




The entrance hall had that classic black-and-white tiling you seen in many stately homes. The rest of the room was totally over the top. Everything including the ceilings were decorated with allegorical paintings and murals.

From here we were taken on a well-guided path around the house, from room to room. Each one had a "host" in it. Not the usual slightly bored person telling you not to touch anything but engaging, informed and cheerful helping you to understand the room. What I found particularly pleasing was their willingness to say when they didn't know certain facts or even admit you may have a fact they didn't know!



The rooms were quite varied. One was filled with what looked like Oriental artefacts, the next was more like a comfy lounge (on a grand scale of course!) where you could imagine your butler bringing you tea and cake.
After a lot of wandering we reached the sculpture gallery, which featured in the film Pride and Predudice starring Keira Knightley and Matthew Macfadyen!


I particularly liked this lion, one of a pair, guarding the exit into the shop and cafe. It looks fierce from the side but less so from the front.



After a quick sausage roll for lunch we headed off into the grounds, predictably VERY large.
The first stop was the fountain, at its time the largest in the world, gravity fed but reaching over 90m in height!



The water comes out of what looks like a large fireman's hose and makes some really nice patterns both in the air and when it hits the rocks. I spent some while trying to do arty photos whilst also getting quite wet when the wind blew in the wrong direction...




The view back to the house gave you an idea of what the landscaper was trying to achieve. The place isn't preserved in aspic and a large modern horses head frames the view from the far side of the long pond.

The last part of the "old" estate we visited was the cascade. 

In years gone by this was a series of steps with water flowing down therm. Unfortunately time has not been kind and it was leaking so badly they have stopped the water and put in place a remedial set of works, scheduled to take a couple of years. 


The water will eventually flew out of the dolphins (?) mouthes on the facade of the building at the top and fall down the steps.

It will be spectacular when finished, and a good reason to come back.

We spent nearly 6 hours going round the house and gardens, much longer than we thought we would but we still had areas to see. The kitchen garden, greenhouses and wild areas are all worth time on their own. Although it is so popular the area is so large you don't feel the crowds which makes it a great destination if you are in this part of the country!
























Thursday, 16 July 2026

Cruising along

On our second day of our mini-break we tried a variation on something we have done many times before. RSPB Bempton cliffs is a magnificent reserve with towering cliffs filled with seabirds. We even visited it on our honeymoon many, many years ago! However we have never seen it from below, so we booked a trip on the Yorkshire Belle to look at it from below.

A one hour or so drive got us to Bridlington, a very old-fashioned seaside resort with groynes on the beach and funfairs and amusements arcades on the promenade.







From my point of view one of the highlights were the kittiwakes. These are gulls which like to nest on cliffs and had a hard time through the 80's and 90's. Since then they seem to have collectively worked out that buildings are cliffs and window sills are ledges. In Bridlington alone there are hundreds of pairs nesting in and around the town, their onomatopoeic call echoing around. The only downside is the mess and not looking upon when you walk down alleyways!





Eventually we headed down to the quay to get onto our boat, the Yorkshire Belle, tied up in the harbour.



To be honest, it's not that big a boat but by god they crammed you on -about 280 on the boat! 

We lucked out and managed to find a seat right by the bow where we could stand up and have half-decent chances of getting some photos. We set off and cruised firstly towards to Flamborough Head, following the coast line .





Fortunately for us the weather was perfect, no wind, no swell and clear skies, not even too hot! As we rounded the head we started to see the seabirds. Firstly they were on the sea as the cliffs were too low for nesting.





Mainly the birds were guillemots and razorbills with a sprinkling of puffins. Mixed in were our friends the kittiwakes as well as gulls and terns. As we cruised along towards the RSPB reserve the cliffs got higher and we found the birds nesting on the ledges. The sounds and the smells were overwhelming and you didn't know which way to look, although mostly it was up!











By the time we reached Staple Newk on the reserve there were loads of gannets  wheeling around. They are very large and rather than nesting on ledges they use flat areas of the fallen cliff to build their nests. From the top you see them riding the thermals, from the sea you see them mooching around and trying to avoid the large boat annoying them!







Gannets used to be relatively uncommon here but in the past 20 or so years have done very well and this is now one of the largest mainland colonies in the UK.

After watching the birds we turned round and headed back for Bridlington, a bit further out but still having great views of the coastline and the birds.


We got back in plenty of time to retrace our steps to Levisham for a very pleasant meal with my cousins and the end to the first of three parts to our holiday.