Tuesday, 11 February 2020

Costa Rica part 5: the hanging bridges of Arenal

The following day we had a morning excursion to a nearby nature reserve, if that is the right phrase for a country that is one giant nature reserve anyway! This was to the hanging bridges, a series of walkways in the canopy of the rainforest in the shadow of the volcano. Carrying on the theme we were on the "early-bird" tour which meant we were at the park not long after dawn, and were the first car in the car park. We were greeted by a lone coatimundi scavenging around the waste bins at the entrance!
It didn't hang about and I suspect wasn't a welcome guest when the tourist hordes arrived later on! Our guide took us on a walk for the next couple of hours which took us round the forest and over about 15 bridges, both suspension and fixed.



There was a lot of wildlife around in the forest, much of it easier to hear than to see, with a few mixed flocks of birds coming though causing bursts of excitement. If they were hard to see they were even harder to photograph so we had more success with leaf and tree shots!




We did find a few wee beasties to photograph, the most interesting probably being this eye-lash viper.
This is a small snake, only a few inches long and a bit larger than pencil in thickness. It is one of the most dangerous in CR though, with only a few minute drops of its venom being deadly! It is for this reason that you are advised to keep your hands well and truly away from plants, bushes, walkways, leaves etc as one could be lurking anywhere. We kept a very discrete distance away from the one, which was only a foot off the main path!!!

Another surprise was these white-lined bats on a tree. Apparently when they roost they line up along the trunk, it is thought to mimic the outline of a snake and put-off potential predators!
This strange construction is the end of a bee nest. They are absolutely tiny little bees which you can just see at the tube entrance. The nest is further into the crack of the tree. The bees themselves are stingless and are one of a number of similar species in CR. They produce honey which is said to have a number of medicinal uses. Although stingless they are  not defenceless. If an invader enters the nest then soldier bees will vigorously flap their wings, creating a rise in temperature in the nest which will overcome the invader but not the bees. 
Bird photos were generally not of the publishable quality but these two at least you can see the bird. The first is a second species of woodcreeper, this time wedge-billed, a smaller, more delicate bird than streak-headed with a plainer breast and neck.
 One of the rarer birds we saw, pottering about in the leaf-litter were these song wrens. CR has a variety of wren species, most of which were lurkers and hard to see but not hard to hear.
We also saw a number of other nice birds, including ruddy tree runner (endemic to CR), yellow-throated vireo, bay wren, orange-billed sparrow, northern waterthrush, crimson-collared tanager and slate-coloured grosbeak.
By the time we had finished our tour the car park was filling up with tour coaches and mainstream tourists heading out for their walks. Another good tour in this wonderful country.

Monday, 10 February 2020

Costa Rica part 4: birding in a hotel garden

Time to set off for our third main stop of our holiday. This was to go from the lush wetlands of the Caribbean coast up into the central highlands. The destination was the area around the Arenal volcano. The trip was due to take about half a day, with the first bit being a repeat of our boat journey back to the pick-up point for our car ongoing for the trip.
Not to miss up on a chance for birding though I was up at first light (travelling West always helps with early starts!) to see what was around in the hotel grounds in Tortuguero.






The answer was, quite a lot. Early morning is always best time for wildlife watching and this was no exception. Toucans appear in the trees at first light to feed then disappear by breakfast only to be heard calling till late evening. This keel-billed toucan did not disappoint. The Montezuma oropendulas were another noisy presence in the gardens, again tucking into the breakfast of fruit from the trees. A number of small bird were flitting about. I was still trying to get my eye in to ID them all, but these olive-backed euphorias and variable seedeaters (both males) made it onto the list. A few brown pelicans were parading up and down on our river and a troop of howler monkeys were foraging behind our lodge. As we were departing I spotted this chestnut-coloured woodpecker wishing us bon voyage!
The trip to Arenal was fairly uneventful apart from a sloth jam by the road with one risking life and limb near some electric wires! This was only yards from a busy road, another pointer to how rich the country is in wildlife.
Once at the hotel we had a free afternoon, so I explored the grounds. Well, I started off with just looking out from our balcony which overlooked lush woodland. This proved a very rich source of sightings.
The first two, which created a bit of an ID issue initially, are the male and female Passerini's tanager (formerly red-rumped tanager). They were the commonest bird seen from the balcony.

 A lot faster and harder to catch was this beautifully named bananaquit with its bold eye-stripe.
 These three are again a pair, this time the female and then male barred antshrike. The male especially was a very striking bird but both had a cheeky crest which they displayed to good purpose.



One of the larger birds to lurk around in the bushes was this buff-throated saltator. Its larger cousin the black-headed saltator was also around but I failed to get a shot of it (most of these were taken in a very small patch of woodland a few feet from our balcony so birds moving through quickly were hard to see let alone photograph). 

 Finally, we had a pair of hummingbirds buzzing around, feeding on the heliconias which they apparently love. These are scaly-breasted hummingbirds, told by a number of ID features. First, is a general lack of features, which rules out a lot of them (hummingbirds are hard!). The beak is medium length with a light down turn. Range also helps in eliminating some other birds. Finally, and you can just about make it out in the in-flight photo. these are white tips to the tail feathers.


 I did eventually leave the refuge of my balcony and venture out into the wider gardens and car-park. this in particular was a source of rich pickings, partly as it was more open. The most surprising thing greeted me on the road up to it - a great curassow.
It was totally unafraid of people and I suspect was a regular around there. It was in the company of other large birds, the crested guans and grey-headed chachalacas.

All-in-all a quite surprising triumvirate.
There were loads of smaller birds in the trees and bushes, most of which I failed abysmally to ID or get photos of. A few I did manage though one was a classic for RecordShotMyArs.
This is a really beautiful bird, the white-necked jacobin, a member of the hummingbird family. I got all the ID features in a superbly-posed photograph. Just a shame I forgot I had been photographing flowers beforehand and had the camera settings all wrong!!!
I got things a bit better with a few others though. This first one is a hummingbird nest with two young in it. I think it may be the jacobin nest but despite waiting by it the adult didn't return whilst I was there.
 This stunning bird is a golden-hooded tanager. Amazing how it is easier to ID birds like this compared to the little brown or green warblers flitting about in the tops of the trees.
Finally, there are a number of wood creepers in Costa Rica, well about a dozen or so, which take the place of our treecreepers in the UK. This one is streak-headed, told by the long-bill, streaks on the head and breast and long tail (and distribution).
 This one would go down a storm in the UK: a black-and-white warbler. A classic USA migrant, we saw a few of the throughout CR, always busy feeding in the canopy.
It didn't end after dark. On our way back from the restaurant we found a small pond where frogs were calling. A nip back to the room to get the camera and tripod and we were back on another night walk.



So, a very productive few hours. Just goes to show that you don't need to go a long way from your hotel to find good stuff in a strange country. Still back to the room in time for a beer before dinner as well!!!

Sunday, 9 February 2020

Costa Rica part 3: Tortuguero by night

One of the additional trips we had whilst in Tortuguero was the opportunity to see the jungle by night. This was a fairly simple walk out from the lodge with a guide and some torches to see what we could find. The answer was, quite a lot, especially amphibians.

The poster-boy of the amphibian world is the red-eyed tree frog. They are reasonably common and quite approachable even when you shine a light on them.
This was the basic idea of the walk. We only walked I imagine a few hundred yards, stopping frequently as we found, or are accurately the guide found, a new thing to look at. Mostly it was frogs and more frogs though.
The bullfrog was the largest of them, about the size of a small fist and beautifully marked.



Others were a lot smaller though just as beautiful. None of them are the dangerous poison-dart frogs of which we saw a few but not well enough to get any photos unfortunately.
We also saw a number of spiders
which those who know me will be amazed I managed to get photos of. 
I think the most amazing thing though was the sleeping birds. You don't think about where they sleep but the answer is clearly on branches. 

These two are broad-winged hawk and white-collared manakin. 
We only saw one mammal, this big-eared climbing rat. 
A really interesting view on a different side of Costa Rica and a lesson in night photography to boot.